Friday, November 7, 2008

Back in Los Angeles

Well, I made it back safely.

I survived three weeks of "authentic" Asian food, begging children, cold showers and Philippine Airlines.

My camera made it through. It still works after being subjected to 100% humidity, monsoon downpours and the occasional knock. Thank you Panasonic. The Lumix DMC-FZ28 is one hell of a sturdy camera.

Dusty is still alive. He stayed with a friend and has been vomiting more than usual but still seems to be doing quite well. He will be 16 years old in January. I'm taking him to the clinic on Monday for more bloodwork and a full checkup.

And now it's time to organize the apartment and get ready for work. I start back at it on Monday. 4 and 1/2 months off. My freedom is coming to an end but I can't talk about that right now. I'm still in the glow.

I want to back up. I had such a great time in Asia, I want to share some of the stories. And a LOT of the photos. The final tally for the number of pictures I took is 2750. I will be editing them for the next ten years.

Where to begin .....???

How about I go back about two months ago when I first decided that I wanted to go to Asia? My brother offered to give me some of his airmiles to help with the expense so it became an opportunity that I couldn't pass up. I still had some time left on my sabbatical so the timing was also perfect. I wanted to go for three weeks.

The first obstacle were the visas for Cambodia and Vietnam. Cambodia wants you to have at least six months remaining on your passport in order to get a visa. Unfortunately my passport was expiring in three months so I had to put a rush order in for a passport. I was still in Canada at the time so I had to scramble to get all the documents together before I left Canada. I was able to get an urgent Canadian passport in 24 hours and along with the necessary urgent birth certificate, I was already $200 out of pocket. Thankfully, Cambodia has an evisa which means that you can apply for the visa online. Vietnam, on the other hand, wants you to send in your passport to the embassy so they can put the visa right in your passport. I sent in my passport and received it a week later. Unfortunately they only gave me a single visit visa (and I needed a multiple visit one) so I had to send the passport back. Time was clicking away but I was able to get the correct visa about a week before I left.

The cost of the Vietnam visa was $130. This is criminal. Essentially, this is just a way of ripping off the tourists who are going there to spend money there anyway. Maybe this is just another way the Vietnamese are trying to screw the Western world for all that Agent Orange. Anyway, I really wanted to go to Saigon so I didn't complain too much about the additional cost. I figured would be saving money on the food and the accomodation.

My next obstacle was Philippine Airlines, affectionately known at PAL. At the time of my departure, I was thinking that they were no pals of mine. I ended up paying over $400 for a ticket that I thought was going to be more or less free for the number of airmiles that I was using. They told me that there was a "fuel surcharge" and "additional taxes". Just to redeem the airmiles was a chore and a half. They wanted all my brother's information, my information and enough paperwork to make a 20 page fax. The day of my departure they told me that my flight was cancelled and I would be leaving the next day. The reason was mechanical. The last thing I wanted was to leave on a defective plane but at this point, I was wondering if I was ever going to make it to Asia and this delay was one more sign that the trip wasn't going to happen.

But it did. I boarded a very tired old Boeing 747. The seat in front of me was held together with duct tape. There was a piece of another seat that I kicked around for the entire duration of the flight. The televisions were filled with cranky static and worst of all, the first movie of the evening was Indiana Jones part 4. Thankfully they supplied us with heavy duty barf bags.

The only good thing about the flight was my flight attendent. She was a beautiful Asian woman named Cherry Pie. She had a great smile and served me up some pretty good food. I fell asleep for most of the trip; the whole thing was about 12 hours.

My first stop was Manila in the Philippines. I arrived at night and was picked up at the airport by a very officious looking man who had a sign with the name of the hotel on it. I was staying at the Edsa Shangri-La, which is a five star business luxury hotel. My brother recommended it to me, thinking that I had WAY more money than what I do.

This is my first picture I took of Asia. It is the view from my room at sunrise. I slept well that night but got up around 4 am.

The Shangri-La is a gorgeous hotel and the staff practically trip over themselves trying to help you out. I liked the elevator guy. Every time I walked nearby he pushed the elevator button. Sometimes I didn't get on the elevtator because I was going somewhere else and it made me feel bad for him. I felt like I had disappointed him in a small way.

The pool, as expected was great. A couple of old men in speedos were swimming in it but it didn't deter me. I was on vacation and damnit, I had a right to that pool too.

Patrick (my travelling buddy who arrived at the hotel later) didn't stay very long. Manila was just a quick stop over. We were travelling to Vietnam on another airlines called Cebu Pacific Airlines the next day. Cebu Pacific is kinda like the Southwest airlines of the Philippines. No frills and the flight attendents dress like they're cheerleaders. We tried to book the flight online with American credit cards but the website wouldn't accept them. Apparently, Cebu doesn't accept yankee plastic. I had to use my dad's Canadian card. Hmmmm. Cebu Pacific, don't ya like the Americans???

We jumped on the plane at 11 o'clock at night. We were headed to Saigon which can be loosely translated as city of complete chaos.

To be continued ....

Saturday, November 1, 2008

Winding down in Siem Reap

It's hot, humid and dusty (and sometimes rainy) but I'm still loving Cambodia.

I had am hour long foot massage for $10 last night. Dinner for two cost $15. Large beers are only $3.50 in a nice bar. And it's good beer. We are still harassed by children but at least they smile when they try to sell us their wares for a buck.

Last week, we made our way up to Siem Reap in the northern part of the country. This town is growing very quickly thanks to the largest group of temples in the world. Most people know Angkor Wat but there are many more temples in various stages of decay dotted around this area. For $40, we were able to see as many as we could in three days. For $60, we could have had a pass for an entire week. I have a feeling that Siem Reap is going to be a huge tourist destination in the next five years but for now it still has a lot of charm and the locals still love the tourists.

We've used up our three days but since I'm crazy, I have decided to get early to view the sunrise over Angkor Wat on Monday. The tuk-tuk driver is picking me up at 5 am. Thankfully my camera has auto-focus because my own eyeballs will still be hazed over at that hour.

On Monday, we make our way back to Saigon, then to Manila and then back to Los Angeles. Broke but happy.

I have taken over a thousand pictures and have so many stories to tell. I'll post them when I can when I get back.

Monday, October 27, 2008

On the road again

Once again, we're up early to get on a six hour bus ride.

This time, we're off to Siem Reap, which is a town located next to the famous ancient temples of northern Cambodia. Angkor Wat is probably best known of these temples and was the center of the Khmer empire at the turn of the last millenium.

We'll be staying there for about a week to do some serious temple exploring. I finally get to fulfill my childhood dream of being Indiana Jones. Can't wait.

I'll fill in all the details later. I'm having a hard time typing on this keyboard and I still have some packing to do.

Goodbye Phnom Penh. I think you're great.

Saturday, October 25, 2008

The cost of southeast Asia

While recovering from a hangover, I've decided to list some prices for the trip so far ...

PHILIPPINES
5 star hotel in Manila (corporate rate) $150/night
flight from Manila to Saigon, Vietnam $250
pair of American sneakers $80
movie ticket to see horrible American movie (Tropic Thunder) $3

VIETNAM
1 month multiple entry visa to Vietnam $130
2 star hotel in the tourist area of Saigon $25/ night
North Face backpacks $10
full course meal with alcoholic drinks for two people in upscale restaurant $25
full day sight seeing tour on a bus $8
shoe shine for shoes that didn't really need it $1 plus $1 tip
getting directions from street children that wouldn't leave us alone $3
getting ripped off by pedicab drivers for a 5 hour city tour $80
getting ripped off by angry women at Hindu temple $6
can of Heineken in a restaurant $1

six hour bumpy bus ride from Saigon to Phnom Penh, Cambodia $13

CAMBODIA

all day tuk-tuk driver (kinda like a motorcyle with a covered cart attached) $17
dinner for two at upscale restaurant $14 to $25
angkor beer in a can bought in a bar $1.50
pictures of begging, smiling self-described orphans at genocide site $0
bottle of water of suspicious origins 25 cents
massage by the side of a dusty road in the outskirts of Phnom Penh $1
Patek Philippe watch which may or may not work $20
tshirts 4 for $10
casual Diesel shirt $15
Calvin Klein or D and G underwear (one size fits all!) $2 each
all day Khmer cooking class $20
tour of school turned into genocide site $6
Khmer lessons by hustler in a bar $2.50

And the great thing about Cambodia for tourists is that they don't even use their own currency. Almost everything is in American dollars! no calculators needed. In Vietnam, they use the dong which have so many zeros attached that you are an instant millionaire.

It's Sunday today. Resting day. So far, I love Phnom Penh. Great city but still very chaotic and crazy.

more later ....

Friday, October 24, 2008

On the road again

On the bus ride to Cambodia, I was thinking about our trip to Vietnam.

Must be a strange place for Americans to visit. Generally people are quite friendly but all the main "tourist attractions" such as the Reunification Palace, the War Remnants Museum and the Cu Chi tunnels all love to give a different side of the Vietnam War.

For example, we call it the fall of Saigon whereas they look at it as the liberation of Saigon. Different sides of the same coin, perhaps.

Thankfully, we were on a bus to Cambodia where they didn't need Americans to wipe out 2 million people. They did it to themselves.

We arrived in Phnom Penh around 2 pm. It was a very pleasant surprise. I was afraid that it would be a complete toilet but instead, it seems much more modern than Saigon. They even have department stores where I bought hair gel (an obvious necessity). There are fewer motorcycles but more cars and the people seem generally more laid back; we weren't attacked with pleas to get on a motorcycle every six feet. I bought really good popcorn off the street and so far I haven't died.

This morning we are off to the infamous torture centre for the Khmer Rouge (which was formerly a school) and then to the Killing Fields. Such fun, such fun ...

Thursday, October 23, 2008

Off to the wilds of Cambodia

Up early to leave on the bus for Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

It's POURING out. I'm sure there are many motorcycles floating away. Hopefully the bus will get us there.

Can't wait to see more tourist sights of death and destruction!

Wednesday, October 22, 2008

Good morning Vietnam!

There is so much to tell, SO much to tell ....

Right now I'm in Saigon, Vietnam. The older generation call it Saigon but the newer generation prefer Ho Chi Minh City. I prefer HCMC just like I prefer KFC and WaMu and those sorts of things.

My friend and I arrived here from the Philippines on the Cebu Pacific flight at 12:30 in the morning. Thankfully it was dark out and most people were asleep at that hour. A guy who didn't speak English was at the airport waiting for us with a sign that said Philip Caldwell on it. I took that as a good sign that someone would know where we were supposed to go.

Our hotel is right in the middle of the "backpacker" district, which I think is just another way of saying "tourist central". Bich Duyen is the name of the hotel and it's a bargain at $25 a night. It's spotlessly clean and run by an incredibly friendly (and helpful) guy named Chanh. The only drawback so far has been the lukewarm (no, make that cold) showers. I love my hot morning showers.

My first impression of Saigon is that it's INSANE. No, make that REALLY INSANE. Traffic in Saigon makes a New York rush hour look like a day in the park. There are no traffic rules. Everyone goes anywhere. Crossing a street as a pedestrian is a nail-biting experience since motorcyles are flying at you from every angle. So far, I have managed to avoid being mowed down by one but there have been some pretty close calls.

We went to the War Remnants Museum which is a museum dedicated to rubbing the Americans' faces in the Vietnam War. They call it the "War of American Aggression" and everywhere there are photos and quotes detailing the American atrocities against the Vietnam people. There was a large area dedicated to the horrific effects of Agent Orange (including pictures of the mutated people and children). I found it very strange that this museum was on the list of must-sees for American tourists and yet it was profoundly anti-American. I guess they have a right to do such things since after all, this is their country.

This afternoon, we went to Cholon which is the largest China town in the world. This place was even more insane than the area of Saigon where our hotel is. It was like a bee hive. So many people EVERWHERE. My pictures will not do it justice. We didn't do a lot of exploring because the traffic looked deadly and it was all a little too much but we did manage to get to the market and buy North Face backpacks for the wholesale price of $10.

Gotta run. It's raining out and hopefully the city has quieted down for the night. Tomorrow, we go to the Cu Chi tunnels. Don't know much about them. It's a day trip so it's gonna be nice to get out of the city.

See ya!